Tom Marchitelli labored as an accountant for a hedge fund for eight years earlier than establishing a facet hustle that quickly turned his full-time enterprise.
Marchitelli began a customized menswear clothes enterprise known as Gentleman’s Playbook a decade in the past. Since then, he has accrued roughly 500 shoppers, the vast majority of whom are skilled athletes within the NFL, NBA, NHL and MLB, and on the PGA Tour.
When The Athletic spoke with Marchitelli, he was heading to an airport in Dallas after a gathering with a baseball participant.
In his function as private designer, stylist and tailor, Marchitelli handpicks complete wardrobes for a clientele which incorporates Kansas Metropolis Chiefs tight finish Travis Kelce. Through the totally different pre-seasons throughout the US’ numerous leagues, Marchitelli isn’t in a single metropolis for lengthy. In addition to engaged on a lookbook of outfits for particular occasions, the vast majority of his work centres round personalising complete collections of tunnel suits for the athletes he works with.
“Tunnel suits” is the phrase used to explain what sportsmen and girls put on after they flip up at venues for video games (‘suits’ being brief for ‘outfits’).
Often, athletes arrive within the tunnel beneath the sector carrying their finest outfits, which is the place the identify derives from. Consider it as a pre-game runway, the place gamers throughout sports activities in North America showcase their personalities via what they put on.
Essentially the most fashion-conscious athletes, similar to Houston Texans’ Stefon Diggs or Oklahoma Metropolis Thunder’s Shai Gilgeous-Alexander, will go large, however others favor to maintain it easy.
Stefon Diggs arrives for an NFL recreation in January this 12 months (Perry Knotts/Getty Photos)
Kyle Kuzma was within the former camp, and is now the latter. The Washington Wizards ahead just lately introduced his ‘retirement’ from the tunnel stroll after taking the sport to heights with selections together with an extremely outsized pink Raf Simons jumper and a black Rick Owens puffer jacket.
“I don’t wish to be part of that kind of neighborhood the place you must placed on a ’match. I’m actually taking a backseat to all of that,” Kuzma instructed Vogue in October.
Whereas Kuzma has checked out and traded in a palate of excessive style for plain-tasting sweatsuits, in Europe, footballers are solely simply checking into the world of tunnel suits.
“It’s a sport inside sports activities (within the U.S.),” Marchitelli says. “Social media performs an enormous function, as a result of all main sports activities groups have media people who find themselves accountable for photographing the gamers as they enter.
“That’s solely been round, I might say possibly eight years, as a result of after I first began, that (posting pictures of gamers arriving to video games on social media) wasn’t a factor. After which it began changing into so seen.
Kyle Kuzma, pictured in 2022 (left) and 2021, has ‘retired’ from deliberate tunnel suits (Getty Photos)
“You’re getting an in depth and private take a look at what athletes appear to be after they’re not of their uniforms (group package), and the way they’re selecting to specific themselves. And, over time, gamers have taken extra satisfaction in how they present up for work.
“One other large issue that drives it’s competitors amongst gamers. These guys try to outdress guys on their group, guys on different groups throughout their sport, and even crossing over into different sports activities.
“Once they present as much as the sector, they’re given the uniform that they’re pressured to put on, so that they don’t have any actual selections of self-expression aside from their footwear, cleats (boots), possibly a wristband accent or a headscarf. However the outfit that they put on to point out as much as the sport, they’re in a position to categorical how they really feel and the way they wish to look.”
Marchitelli may subject a group in every males’s main sports activities league with the variety of shoppers he has, however not a single one is knowledgeable footballer regardless of MLS and NWSL groups having each dabbled on this subcultural motion.
In European soccer, tunnel suits are virtually nonexistent. France worldwide Jules Kounde led the best way for Barcelona in latest seasons along with his ensembled seems to be which mix classic finds with excessive style. This season although, Barca gamers are now not been allowed to reach for video games in their very own garments. This has led Kounde, a face now as recognisable in style quarters as a lot as soccer, capturing his suits to share along with his followers on social media after matches as a substitute.
Most groups have a strict club-tracksuits-only coverage utilized to matchday and this is without doubt one of the essential the explanation why pre-game tunnel suits haven’t but taken off in soccer.
So the place is the individuality? The reply to that doesn’t but reside within the underbelly of stadiums however within the automotive parks of the game’s coaching grounds. Heading into coaching on your membership or nationwide group has slowly advanced right into a time when gamers throughout the lads’s and girls’s video games can showcase their type within the type of arrival suits.
Exhibiting up for worldwide responsibility, particularly, has turn out to be a second for gamers to exhibit their style prowess.
Final month, Liverpool defender Ibrahima Konate arrived at France’s coaching floor carrying a neon inexperienced hood zipped over his face whereas his worldwide team-mate Marcus Thuram, typically bedecked in Balenciaga and Chrome Hearts, is amongst these additionally paving the best way.
Konate arrives for worldwide responsibility with France in October (Franck Fife/AFP by way of Getty Photos)
Gamers of Argentina, Belgium and Portugal are three different standouts who persistently present up. In the meantime, England — whose gamers embody Louis Vuitton model ambassador Jude Bellingham — are nonetheless strutting round in team-supplied Nike tracksuits, proving the pattern has not fully caught fireplace all over the place.
“It was in all probability 2022 when that (arrival suits) wave actually started,” Jordan Clarke, founding father of Footballer Matches, a platform which celebrates footballer style, says.
Clarke seen that Premier League group Crystal Palace had began placing photos on Instagram of their gamers arriving at their south London coaching floor carrying their very own garments. After beginning a dialog with the membership, Footballer Matches and Palace have been collaborating on Instagram posts to showcase what gamers are carrying ever since.
“Now we’ve performed it with Chelsea, Nottingham Forest, Anderlecht in Belgium, we’ve performed it with Brentford loads, we’ve performed it with Crystal Palace Girls, Chelsea Girls — there are such a lot of,” says Clarke, who hopes that arrival suits are a precursor to tunnel suits changing into an everyday sight in soccer.
“I don’t wish to go away anybody out, however we’ve performed it with so many golf equipment and now you’re seeing Liverpool, Newcastle United and Manchester Metropolis possibly not doing it in collaboration with us, however they’re doing it (themselves) now, and that’s superb to see.
“With coaching, there’s a lot much less strain. They (golf equipment) can launch photographs midweek and no matter occurs on the weekend, except you’re a super-negative individual, I don’t suppose persons are going to hyperlink again to what the gamers wore to coaching as the explanation why they misplaced.”
Siobhan Wilson is without doubt one of the gamers who has featured on Footballer Matches’ Instagram web page in collaboration together with her membership, Birmingham Metropolis Girls, and she or he would welcome an escape from the normal pre-match tracksuit.
“It really annoys me, you understand — particularly if you see what they’re doing within the WNBA,” says the 30-year-old Jamaica worldwide with fun. “I want we did stuff like that right here. They simply need us to all appear to be clones of one another, but it surely’s high-quality.”
Wilson used to ship mail whereas taking part in part-time for Palace. She now combines a full-time taking part in profession at Birmingham, who’re prime of the second-tier Championship, with being a health influencer to 1.3million followers on TikTok.
“It’s good for the followers to see gamers categorical themselves via what they’re carrying and their type,” she says. “You get to see folks’s personalities by doing that, so it will be one thing that I might like to see extra of.
“For me, I really feel like if you happen to’ve received like a pleasant ’match on, and a great pair of footwear on, you simply really feel good. However I get the opposite facet (gamers arriving in uniform tracksuits) too. It’s a group recreation. You’re there to play as a group, so I get it from that standpoint, however carrying your personal garments and feeling snug in what you’re carrying: it lets you be your self a bit extra.”
Martin Odegaard and Arsenal arriving in group gear to play Chelsea this month (Stuart MacFarlane/Arsenal FC by way of Getty Photos)
Algen Hamilton is a designer and stylist from south London.
His break within the style business arrived when he began styling seems to be for footballer good friend Reiss Nelson, the Fulham winger (on mortgage from Arsenal) who he met at main faculty aged 4. Hamilton’s shopper checklist contains Trevoh Chalobah (Crystal Palace, on mortgage from Chelsea), Kai Havertz (Arsenal), Joe Willock (Newcastle), Ben Chilwell (Chelsea) and Mateo Kovacic (Manchester Metropolis).
“I’ll work with them continuously all through the season, each time they wish to — after they have an occasion arising or they’ve an awards ceremony or they’re going to a premiere,” Hamilton, 24, explains. “With regards to arrival suits, these seems to be usually come from the wardrobe I create and I’ll replace it a number of occasions in a 12 months.
“I converse to them first about what they wish to put on and what the vibe is that we’re going for, if it’s totally different to earlier than, the place they’re travelling to et cetera. Then I’ll go off, make the outfits and ship them a message. They are going to inform me which outfits they love.
“So, for instance, I’m working with Trevoh proper now. We made an entire bunch of outfits, which he picked, after which there are manufacturers who wish to reward some stuff for winter.”
Amadou Onana, left, checks in for Belgium responsibility in 2023 (Nico Vereecken/Photograph Information by way of Getty Photos)
Having labored with Chalobah on a full-time foundation since 2021, Hamilton has watched the development of soccer and style’s relationship firsthand.
“After I first began, gamers weren’t actually going on the market dressing up like they do now, and it wasn’t simply the Premier League — we’re speaking La Liga (its Spanish equal) and the Bundesliga (the highest division in Germany),” he says.
“Additionally, manufacturers weren’t actually opening up partnerships to soccer gamers both. As time has passed by, the recognition has grown and supporters are tapping into the participant outdoors of the coaching floor and off the pitch. I really feel like now, these alternatives are occurring extra. Gamers are extra open with their suits and wish to present them off.
“We’ve got watched the sport change little by little and it is just a matter of time for it to get to that stage the place it’s just like the sports activities are in America. However let’s not combine a step ahead with progress, as a result of it may be a step ahead seeing groups try this (post-arrival suits on social media) but it surely doesn’t imply it’s precise development for the groups to vary their minds.
“The Premier League may be very conventional. They’ll in all probability be the final league that can change how issues are.
“It might be good for the progress to be significant; for it (carrying an arrival outfit) to not be checked out as a distraction or as a second the place gamers aren’t centered on what the group goals are, however to see it as a chance the place gamers are expressing themselves.”
GO DEEPER
Footballers, modelling and the ability of expression
(High photographs: Getty Photos; design: Kelsea Peterson)
